Piles and Clutter: Rethinking the City’s Organization


Shop selling leather goods on Sion Road.

Vishal sits, his head hunched, over a sewing machine. Next to him are two other men; a half-metre across two more workers are sitting. Theirs is a typical clothing workshop in central Mumbai. On the first story of a residential area with many migrants, the room barely holds the five men, their sewing machines, bags hanging from the ceiling, and various piles on the floor. It is typical of small-scale manufacturing workshops throughout Mumbai. In Dharavi’s leather workshops, for example, workers sit amidst piles of raw material and finished goods. In the area’s plastic recycling units, value is derived from the act of sorting large barrels and grinding tiny pellets.

At first sight, Vishal’s workshop seems, like these other places, unnecessarily disorganized and cluttered. Why are there all these piles on the floor, some wrapped in cloth, some tied with string, and some contained within large blue plastic bags? The men, deeply engrossed in their work, moving rhythmically to the mechanical staccato of the needles, seem to be half-submerged in stuff. One pile merges with the next; each mound seems to have layers beneath it; and picking your way through the cramped space, each bundle threatens to topple over.

The workshop’s internal organization seems indicative of popular areas in Mumbai at large. It is no accident that small-scale industries proliferate in the city’s slums. Workshops and homegrown neighbourhoods are seen as polluting eyesores, as cloistered confusion. Bureaucratic planners, real-estate developers and liberal critics promise a different vision: order, neatness and efficiency.

This understanding of cities owes much to the modernist script of classification. Clutter, in this view, is not simply a product of makeshift circumstance or deficient governance. Rather, it is an insult against reason and order. Robert Moses, whose segmented vision informed New York’s post-war layout, was obsessed with demarcating form and function: ‘people here, traffic there; work here, homes there; rich here, poor there’ (Berman 1984: 168). The reigning idea of a desirable city is, in this sense, a precisely delineated panorama. When threats to this vista emerge – say, with hawkers in a residential zone – the whole city seems, despairingly, to fray.

Can we imagine another way of understanding the city’s form and organization? Mumbai’s competing visions generally depart from an external, God’s eye vantage point. When we peruse municipal Master Plans, or newspaper advertisements for gated enclaves, we are suspended above an already existing form. Yet seen from a different vantage point, the city is never already there; it is a perpetual work in progress. Rather than emerging out of a tangle of impoverishment or ignorance, the city is made through daily acts.

A return to Vishal’s workshop demonstrates this point. What seem, at first glance, to be random piles scattered on the floor are actually deliberately arranged. In the desk immediately surrounding Vishal, for example, is one pile of men’s shirts that he has begun to assemble; the man to his right will do the collars and cuffs, and then pass it on to another to do the buttons. Another mound contains shirts that require some unique stitching on their front pockets. Yet another stack is of nearly completed garments requiring one final touch; a recent fashion is for buttons to be attached between the elbow and shoulder, for a rolled-up sleeve. Some piles bound with string come from a supplier of material; other piles in blue plastic bags will go to a distributor. When Vishal and his co-workers work towards a particular deadline, or are visited by their contractor, they know exactly which pile contains what. They work on several contracts simultaneously, each pile an archive of an order’s movement from raw material to completed shirt. What seems, to the untrained eye, confusing or confounding, is, when inhabited from within, perfectly sensible.

One might argue that Vishal’s workshop is a by-product of necessity, not of choice. Surely, a more sophisticated, better-equipped work place, like a better-planned city, would offer more regimentation? Evidence suggests otherwise. As scholars of piling behaviour note, professional, white-collar workers are usually surrounded by anarchic-seeming agglomerations of paper (Sellen and Harper 2001). These piles are organic entities whose sifting and sorting make sense to workers.

In other words, a small-scale workshop and large corporate office are not separated by their degree of organization. The collecting, sifting and prioritizing of piles is remarkably similar. We can extrapolate from this point to the widespread distinction between popular areas and gentrified ones. Conventionally, violation of zoning strictures is thought to define homegrown neighbourhoods, such that workshops, residences, temples, and public spaces overlap helter-skelter. Yet it is obvious that upmarket neighbourhoods display a similar disregard for segmentation. Indeed, in Mumbai’s officially residential middle-class colonies, one finds plenty of consultants’ offices, Internet cafes, yoga studios, commercial bakeries, doctors’ clinics, and the like. As in popular areas, such overlap between form and function makes eminent sense.

To a remarkable degree, we still unnecessarily fetishize a disembodied ideal of urban order and form. I’ve suggested here that we would do well to acknowledge clutter – whether inside homes and workshops or across urban neighbourhoods – as a universal practice. What seems disorderly to the untrained eye is in fact often perfectly sensible.

Ajay Gandhi is a post-doc fellow at the Max Planck Institute for the Study of Religious and Ethnic Diversity in Göttingen. He is also a part of the homegrown neighbourhood workshop held by the Institute of Urbanology in January 2013.

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Circulating Urbanism

circulatingurbanism

This year, we traveled down the Konkan coast with a greater sense of purpose. Our ongoing work in Mumbai indicated that the city’s connections with this long strip of coastal, hilly terrain, stretching from the metropolis and going all the way down to Mangalore, were old and deep. As we observed the circulation of people and goods along the coast, it became increasingly apparent that the story of India’s urban formations was intimately tied to such movements.

The Mobile Lives Forum in Paris, encouraged us to continue exploring these thoughts, which became the basis of a six month preliminary study of the relationship of Mumbai to the Konkan Railway and the urban systems that it spawned. These systems cover areas that go beyond the city’s formal territory. We understand them as networks of habitats, both rural and urban, that are connected to each other through regular movements of goods and people.

The Konkan connection to Mumbai is only part of a larger universe in which the city’s force of gravity pulls together many other such regions. These follow various migratory patterns, connecting Mumbai to places all over the country from where it sources its human capital. Such movements create distinct patterns of habitats, both within the city and in places far away from it, eventually forming a common world of shared finances and transformed cultural ties.  The Indian railways have played a major connecting role in this process. Its cost – effective nature allows millions of people to develop and maintain long distance ties, thus considerably modifying the urbanization process from a one-way channel into a multi-directional flow.


Roha was the first town on our journey from Mumbai to Mangalore.

The fourteen year old Konkan railway network is a recent entry into this story of circulatory urbanism.  However, the energies of the Konkan urban systems that it harnesses are older.

These relied on steamer boats for more than a century to transport people to the city. In fact, the formation of the railway itself was a wish fulfillment of the city s sizable workforce who belonged to this region. The only reason the railways could not be built earlier was because engineering techniques of old could not penetrate its difficult terrain. During its absence, the steamers did a commendable job allowing people to go back and forth, for festivals, family rituals and for partaking in agricultural work in villages, which supplemented their urban incomes.

If anything at all the Konkan railway has only enhanced the process. We documented the movement of passengers and goods in six stations, Roha, Chiplun, Ratnagiri, ( Maharshtra), Thivim (Goa), Udupi and Managlore (Karnataka).  The movements of 75 – 90 passengers per station, was mapped out showing points of origins, departures, reasons for and frequency of travel.  All these 450 odd routes were mapped and tabulated.

Along with these, we explored each of the towns, traveled to villages around them, spoke to local businessmen, shopkeepers, teachers, builders, homemakers, students, politicians and children. Conversations revolved around the railways, on the role of Mumbai in their lives, the presence of other urban centers that had shaped the region including Dubai and the middle-east, the coming of migrants from far off regions to set up shops or homes in small coastal towns, and about long-time Mumbai residents who belong to the region and are reinvesting in homes back in the village of origin.

We saw for ourselves the future of urban India as reflected in the growing, dynamic experiences of small towns (big enough by European and American demographic standards) appreciating how deeply connected they were, in a lively, everyday sense, to the dense countryside, scattered with villages – all of them changing and transforming each other.


Urbanization in Mangalore.

What we inferred from the data was that:

a) The connections between Mumbai and all these six nodes remains as strong as ever. The movement of people and goods reveal stable systems of circulation and exchange. People from Mumbai who originally belonged to these towns are investing in their older histories through business and real estate.  Conversely, enhanced connectivity actually gives many people the choice of not moving to Mumbai, but traveling to the metropolis only for strategic purposes. What is undeniable is that the city continues to be a huge economic presence in the life of the region. What is equally true is that the region is not dependent on the city for permanent habitation but has several choices of its own to provide.

b) At present the Konkan railway serves a linear route, in which it sees itself as a missing link in the larger chain of the Indian railways. However, the railway stations and towns on the Konkan routes have greater local potential.  They can be seen as nodes on urban systems that spread from each town and station, going deep into the countryside.  These multi-directional flows of transport routes connecting villages to towns on an everyday basis indicate that the railways can be more effectively employed to serve local urban systems comprising of networks of villages and towns and thus generate complementary revenue for the railway company.


Commute from
Guhagar to Chiplun city.

All these findings hint at a deeper plot in the story of urban formation in India. The railways continue to play a pivotal role in the lives of millions of Indians who live in its cities. Many of them live in places that are considered to be inappropriate urban habitats on two grounds – legality of tenure or quality of construction. Either way, these very factors make them cheap temporary alternatives, till the time the resident makes his or her way up the ladder of economic and political stability, which is not as smooth and quick a process as one would like it to be. In the mean time, the village back home continues to be a huge support system, a source of social security which provides a sense of belonging that is not so easily erased by a new urban location.

The means of keeping this relationship alive is a cheap and relatively comfortable mode of transport, the railways, that connects people across thousands of miles. It creates a more layered sense of belonging that does not get easily fixed into urban and rural straightjackets and demands an understanding of urban formation in India that transcends them.

For more images of our Konkan journey, visit our flickr page.

For an extended discussion on the idea of urban systems and India`s distinctive urbanization visit airoots.org

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Paraisopolis-Dharavi News Update

http://www.vimeo.com/39823519
This video cannot be viewed in India because the Dpt of Telecom is currently blocking vimeo.com

We are on a backlog of news from Sao Paulo. Here is a nice video by the collective LiveinSlums (Milan/Nairobi) summing up the Sao Paulo Calling event in Paraisopolis, which we are part of. It is in Portuguese, Spanish and English with Italian subtitles! This pretty much covers more than a decent amount of the world from where people got involved in the project. Milan, Sao Paulo, Mumbai and other cities dialogued with each other, with the favelas of Sao Paulo being the focus and point of inspiration. What is heartening is that the connections we evoke between our work in Dharavi, Mumbai and Paraisopolis, Sao Paulo seem to have became a distinct new arc in this multi-city story. A short feature was also aired on SBT Brasil yesterday: Click here to see it.

It was picked up and presented as an article published in BBC Brasil about what Mumbai could learn from Sao Paulo. It mentions our project for a Paraisopolis-Dharavi Institute of Urbanology next year. This institute began as a speculative exercise, a piece of fiction. For us, fiction is all about creative possibilities that are waiting to happen. It propels us into making new realities and conjuring them up is only the first step towards their actual realization. The Institute is tentatively visualized as a program in which urban practitioners of all kinds – architects, planners, activists and artists among others – from all over the world, come and learn from the residents, local builders, contractors and others from the neighbourhood of Paraisopolis. They learn about construction techniques, local architecture and several other aspects of urban life which are of relevance to people all over the world. Look out for future updates on this page.

Click here to see in on the BBC website and here to read a google translation of the article in English.

Click here for a direct link to the article. And here for an English translation.

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Dharavi Goes to Paraisopolis


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.

Our obsession with mixing and merging urban landscapes and histories just moved to another level. We decided to let go of photoshopping for a bit and actually take a piece of Mumbai to Sao Paulo.

As part of the Sao Paulo Calling Exhibition curated by Architect Stefano Boeri and organized by the Secretariat de Habitaçao de Sao Paulo, images from Dharavi (Mumbai) became a part of the streetscape of Paraisopolis (Sao Paulo).

Residents of Paraisopolis chose pictures that appealed to them and in some ways corroborated their life, location or scenario across these two neighbourhoods that exist on either side of the globe.

Residents will exhibit them in their homes, shops, streets so that passers by can get a glimpse of the neighbourhood that is both so far away and astonishingly close in spirit. This live mashup continues to do what our mashed-up images always did – reveal connections across cities, to show they often emerge from similar impulses. From street vendors, to retailers, from residents to travelers, the neighbourhoods of Paraisopolis and Dharavi share as much in common as their distinct histories allow.

Together they represent the default mode in which the world is urbanizing when it is not being tamed by master planners and real estate developers. As we have shown in previous mashups there is no reason to view locally driven urban development as illegitimate. In fact, it is the acceptance of these local dynamics that have produced the celebrated heritage fabric of Italian old towns and the futurist urbanscapes of Tokyo’s suburbs.

That look of surprise and recognition, when people from Paraisopolis first saw the Dharavi images transformed into powerful gestures of solidarity as they lovingly chose their preferred image and stuck it firmly inside their worlds.

It was like a warm heartfelt handshake across thousands of miles.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.


Paraisopolis artist Barbela and Dharavi activist Bhau Korde. Click on the image to enlarge it and here to see the photo being exhibited.

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Bombay Drift


Chapel Street, Bandra

Walking through the streets of Mumbai is an intense experience with every excursion being an adventure of its own.

For most people in the city, walking is a banal activity, something they hardly think twice about. However, during the last one month with URBZ, taking a walk through various neighbourhoods in the city has made me aware of its many unexpected dimensions.

In the city where I come from – that is Delhi – I’ve hardly ever walked. A pedestrian is considered to be a trifling being. Moreover, public space in general is highly gendered and often a long sojourn from your house to the neighbourhood deli would make you understand the power hierarchies much faster than a two hour class discussing radical feminism.

Thus, often I could not help but feel like a stranger in my own city. What kind of cities are we making? Are big cities killing the pedestrians? How public is “public” space really?

When I read Michel de Certeau’s “The practice of Everyday Life”; I could not help but be riveted by his idea of the city and what makes a city, or what I would like to call the city-fabric. According to him, the practice of walking is one of the most elementary forms of experiencing the city and something, which resonates in my mind every day.


Veronica Street, Bandra

In Mumbai, I walk daily from Sion Circle to the URBZ office in the Transit Camp. I walk in the quiet streets of Bandra where I live, I walk in the parallel universe of Dharavi with narrow streets but warm people, I walk in rush hour at the Dadar station and I also walk along the dimly lit Marine Drive at night.

Once in Bandra, wandering through the narrow lanes which melted into each other, I found myself in Chapel Street. It was a special visual experience to absorb that space in its entirety and at once I heard the city speaking to me and also to many others simultaneously.

This street- the most basic element in urban sociology- was at once static and full of life. It represented the everyday and the spectacular at the same time. I was with my colleague Francesco, and, our search for old Portuguese bungalows in Bandra led us to discover many other interesting aspects about the city. It was like having a conversation with the city-spaces and the age-old heritage- which ultimately lead me to read the “real city”; accessible only to the pedestrian and one which cannot be found in concrete apartments or high rises. It exists in all its ethnographic beauty on the street.

And, that’s when I also realised how spaces are an affect. Reading spaces, streets, neighbourhoods-be it by walking or any other such fundamental impulse – makes you re-discover the larger relationship that exists between the social and the purely geographical.

On another assignment with Shyam, who also works at URBZ, I walked into the labyrinth called Dharavi; knowing little what was to come. We started from our office in the Transit Camp and within the next two hours wehad reached Mahim and crossed almost every street that lay between. The rich texture of the neighbourhoods that we saw, the people we met and the houses we were invited in, created an immediate relationship with the physical spaces we explored that day.


Mary from Dharavi

Amongst the twenty odd people we interviewed that day, we met Mary. She makes chai just around the corner from the URBZ office. I did not even know of her existence during the last two months of my working. Mary makes chai all day long in her little shop which she shares with another lady, Devi. For both of them, the street is their office, home and playground all at once.

The small streets in the big city are one of the most important features of Mumbai’s fabric. And, somewhere down the line- the everyday practice of walking and this raw city-fabric lead you to each other. On both the above mentioned occasions, in some odd way; it seemed like I strengthened my relationship with the city.

I wonder what Michel de Certeau would have said had he walked the streets of Dharavi! More on that in a subsequent post….

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