Khushboo chawl, Khotachiwadi

We recently organized a week-long studio on Khotachiwadi, a heritage precinct in Girgaum, Mumbai, with students from the School of Habitat Studies at the Tata Institute of Social Sciences (TISS). This was part of a course taught by URBZ members Rahul and Matias on the politics of urban space. The studio took place at Studio X near CST, with fieldwork in Khotachiwadi every day. In Khotachiwadi we often met at James Ferreira’s house who generously hosted us.

The studio focused on the chawls of Khotachiwadi. While Khotachiwadi is well known for its Konkan-Portuguese-style bungalows, its chawls and their residents have often been left out of the picture. This is a shame because, as most visitors and residents acknowledge, the diversity of habitats, architectures and cultures is one of the most interesting aspects of this much loved neighbourhood.

TISS-SoHS students brainstorming at Studio X

Throughout the studio, we discussed the history and culture of Khotachiwadi, the meaning of heritage in a rapidly changing city, the importance of having diverse habitats, rent control and how it allowed people across classes to stay in places like Khotachiwadi. We talked about architectural styles and urban typologies and the role of local economic activities in preserving neighbourhood life. We discussed mixed-use patterns in old neighborhoods of Mumbai and how urban plans and zoning codes are typically based on segregating functions. We also talked about urban villages, political identity, East Indians and their origins, the role of the Shiv Sena in local politics and a few other things.

The students visited the chawls, interviewed residents and published their texts and photos on http://khotachiwadi.urbz.net. They asked residents about their personal histories and stories and their current situation; the way they perceive the possibility of edevelopment; their relationship with bungalow residents; their aspirations; the possibility of envisioning a common future with other residents of Khotachiwadi belonging to different castes and histories.

Residents of Khotachiwadi celebrate the Diwali in front of the 150 years old Khanderao chawl. The Diwali Sammelan festival was started over 75 years ago by Mangesh Rane ji who is the oldest resident of Khotachiwadi.

Chawls are a very typical architectural typology in Mumbai, dating from the city’s industrial days, derived from the structure of army barracks, evolving into residential sites for industrial workers and finally being reshaped in use by the in-coming families of migrant workers to eventually become bustling middle-class neighbourhoods The chawls can be anything between 1 to 5 stories high and are typically organized around a large veranda connecting single rooms, with the whole floor sharing a common bathroom. Many of them have been converted or destroyed in the past decade or so. Some of the chawls of Khotachiwadi are more than 150 years old, a few families have roots there going back more than four generations and some have individual toilets in each home.

The neighbourhood of Girgaum, to which Khotachiwadi belongs, is well known for its historical chawls. Thanks to the Maharashtra Rent Act, which has frozen rents in South Mumbai at their 1947 level, many families have been able to stay in this part of the city where rent for a new 50 sq.m flat can easily reach Rs 50,000/month or higher. Often accused to be the root cause of all urban problems in Mumbai because it never allowed owners to maintain their buildings properly, the rent control act has also been instrumental in maintaining people from all socio-economic background in South Mumbai.

These and other themes were explored and discussed by the participants of the studio, the output of which is available on http://khotachiwadi.urbz.net

The URBZ MASHUP Mumbai was automated by an enthusiastic bunch of creative urbanists from Mumbai and around the world. They mixed and matched their experiences to re-locate these old neighbourhoods within a contemporary context through their own histories and experiences.

They decoded the by-lanes of Chor Bazaar and re-arranged them in an alternative map that respected the flea-market’s self-made rules. They connected its grammar to markets from Goa and elsewhere.

They  suggested signposts and made new maps that gave legitimacy to the informality of Abdul Rehman Street.

They made toys inspired by roadside knick-knack sellers and hawked them for older images, photographs and memories.

They cast creative projections beneath the JJ Flyover that snakes through the neighbourhood like a gigantic beast and opened up possibilities inspired from New York – possibilities that included performance and alternative uses.

They transformed the walls of Khotachiwadi into canvases for painting dreamscapes inflected by Byzantine, Mexican and popular art.

They walked through the labyrinthine Bhuleshwar  and coined words, phrases and narratives to describe the experience that coalesced into new meanings by different users.

They documented the existential crisis of Crawford market that is trying to reinvent itself and suggested alternative ways of doing so – by mashing up the internal logic of the market with its new aspirations.

They figured out that ‘Bazaarchitecure’ was the main motif of the formal-informal market-dense neighbourhood such as the Municipal C and D wards which incorporates the ‘Mashup Area’ and suggested new policy frameworks for their future.

They were invited to walk into a living heritage of ‘Old Bombaye’ – Edward Talkies and managed to capture a World-War II-style cinematic experience that co-exists in a perfect Mashup moment with a contemporary multiplex down the road.

They focused on the patterns made by the shadows of the thousand odd users of the lanes and captured the busy street-life through a refracted photographic gaze.

Some of the output was exhibited at the Girgaum Catholic Club in Khotachiwadi on November 1st – the final day of the Mashup.

We are grateful to Art India Magazine for having sponsored the printing of the output for the exhibition.

The press covered the event with pithy one-liners. ‘Whose City is it anyway?’, ‘Heritage Hunt’, ‘The Great Mumbai Mashup’, ‘How to Make your own Mumbai’ and ‘Mumbai – Tailor Made’.

A full report of the workshop will soon be available on the site. Meanwhile, you can start browsing the mashup’s output here. More images on the URBZOO Flickr page.

Toy Bazaar: Toys in exchange of memories in the old bazaar style

Team: Himanshu S, Monica Nanjunga,  Guru S., Varsha Deshikar, Yashmi  Kantak  and  Namita  Thakur.

The workshop started at the JJ College of Architecture and by the end of a long day the groups coalesced into the following themes:

(Note: The titles are tentative and may change from day to day till the final Mashup emerges on November 1, 2009 at 6:00p.m. at the Girgaum Catholic Club, Khotachiwadi.)

1. Toy Bazaar

Toys in exchange of memories in the old bazaar style

Himanshu S, Monica Nanjunga,  Guru S., Varsha Deshikar

2. Carousel – words from worlds

Kaiwan Mehta, Oskar Edstorm, Beata Hemer, Suleiman Merchant , Girish Menon

3. Chaotic Patterns

Cecil Pinto, Edson Dias

4.  Null Bazaar – Trust Buildings. Everyday life of Null Bazaar through trust buildings.

Ranjit Kandangaonkar,  Amit  Rai, Ekta,

5. Path Finder – Mapping of abdul reheman street with signs and symbols.

6. From dawn to dust – A/V of the way of life of A.R Street.

7. No. 1 – Urination – Sanitation.

Kunal Ghevaria, Rajitha Vripparthi, Cheshta Papneja, Renny Verghese, Shruti Gaokar, Sanobar Girap, Mustansir Dalvi.

8. Under the flyover – Making public space under the street.

Ankit Savla, Stephanie Carlisle, Sourav Biswas, Himanshu & Monica, Guru, Varsha.

9. The Palm Project: Telling the story of places through the stories of people.

Pratishta Durga , Niral Parekh and Tarun Durga

10. Bazaarchitecture

Chor Bazaar

Geeta Mehta, Ally Reeves, Dipti Higorani, Asmita Bandekar, Yoji Toriumi

Crawford Market

Geeta Mehta, Harshvardhan Jakkar, Apporva Jalindre, Neva Pedczzini, Vyasdev Yenglchom, Mayuri Straub, Juiichi Iida

11. Khotachiwadi Wall Project – Painting the Neighbourhood

James Ferreira, Isa, Himanshu S and others

Bijal Vachharajani writes about the URBZ MASHUP Mumbai in this week’s edition of Time Out Mumbai

Politicians and the media have been debating the plan to build a statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji off Marine Drive. The municipality has been busy considering proposals for towering hotels across the city. Matias Echanove, Rahul Srivastava and Geeta Mehta, on the other hand, have a different vision for Mumbai. They believe that the city should develop more organically, as a user-generated city. “When you are developing an urban design, you should incorporate systems that allow people to intervene in the planning,” said Echanove , who has started the research outfit urbanology.com with Srivastava. “Residents are the city experts. They are the ones who have the most pertinent and accurate data about their city.”

This fortnight, Echanove, Srivastava and Mehta, who is an associate professor of architecture and urban studies at Temple University, Japan, are organising a workshop that will help city residents put some of their visions down on paper. Urbz Mashup will give artists, designers, architects, activists, writers, photographers and just about anyone interested in cities and urban planning the opportunity to present their ideas about Mumbai in any form they want – music, videos, photo-collages, even short stories. “They can speculate about the future architecture, create a dream scenario or a nightmarish one,” said Echanove. “It could be a vision inspired by any place – a neighbourhood, another city or country.” The work will be exhibited online on the Urbz website, while selected plans will be displayed at an exhibition at the Sir JJ School of Art.

Over four days, the group will cover some of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, including Crawford Market, Bhuleshwar and Chor Bazaar, documenting their history, archiving the changes taking place and using their imagination and skills to re-interpret the area. “The workshop is an opportunity for urban practitioners to collectively explore localities, streets and neighbourhood,” said Srivastava. “They can bring in their own experiences to produce new ways of looking at, visualising and imagining the city.”

The Mashup idea emerged from the Urban Typhoon workshop that had been organised in Dharavi in 2008. “We felt this time we should focus on the creative element of urban practice,” said Srivastava. “Development laws are going to change the landscape of Mumbai. So we thought we’d have a small exercise that will find new ways of looking at a street.” He explained that the Mashup aims to transform the city in a creative manner “that does not destroy the spirit of the neighbourhood, its residents, their thoughts and feelings” .

Echanove added that the workshop would also concentrate on specific pockets such as the nineteenth-century Khotachiwadi village in Girgaum. “This historic site is threatened by real estate developers,” said Echanove. “There’s a lot of pressure to sell and once these bungalows are sold, they will be destroyed. However, we can use design strategies to preserve the neighbourhood.” He cites fashion designer James Ferreira’s house in Khotachiwadi as an example. Ferreira has restored his family home in a way that the ground floor functions as a living space and the first floor as an office. Another bungalow has rented out the ground floor to a gym. “It’s almost like a village economy operating in an urban space,” Echanove said. “This way, at least the income generated goes towards conserving the locality. At the Mashup we will work with the residents and try to find similar solutions.”